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De'Moss & Gutter Man, LLC
Tips & Facts

We have helpful information that might save you time and maybe some money too!

 


Moss returns with winter.

Fall and winter in Oregon means moss will be shifting back into its vigorous growth stage on the roofs of many Oregon Domes.  Moss is a significant problem for homeowners because it grows underneath roofing shingles, loosening them and creating leaks. Moss thrives in damp, shaded locations, said Jan: McNeilan, Oregon State University. Extension. Service consumer horticulture agent. It is often found-on-the north slopes of roofs and roofs shaded by over hanging trees. Control measures include removal of overhanging branches, scraping away as much moss as possible, and spraying the area with a chemical. Spraying is most effective when the moss is actively growing, and when rain is not likely for-several-days. Moss-grows vigorously during the rainy season. Several chemical solutions are available for controlling roof moss including copper sulfate and some zinc formulations. These materials are corrosive so be sure to wash metal cave troughs,., downspouts, and metal spray equipment thoroughly with water immediately after treatment Always follow manufacturer's directions for any chemical used.

Zinc galvanized or copper ridges are effective for moss control about 1-0 to 15 feet down from the ridge on most roofs. Use extreme care when applying the materials mentioned above,-McNeilan said. Keep them away from children and animals, and prevent contamination of plants. Be sure the spray does not fall or drift onto plants, and that the spray solution is not, carried down drain spouts to injure plants in foundation plantings: Applying solutions with a sprinkler can reduce the drift hazard.

 


Moss control without chemicals.

 

Moss management without chemicals is possible
Moss does not have roots, and so they can't take up water from soil as many other plants do. This means that they need flowing or falling water in order to thrive. In addition, the way moss reproduces requires flowing water. Mosses cope with this constraint by growing in environments that are wet at least some of the time. During dry conditions they are inactive, but quickly recover when water is available. Moss and algae grow on all surfaces.
There is a consensus that growth of moss on most standard residential roofing materials (either three-tab composition shingles or cedar shingles and shakes) can damage the roof. Just how fast this damage happens depends on various problems. The highest level of growth will probably be on north-facing slopes and in the shaded areas from either trees or other buildings. Parts of the roof that get direct sun are less likely to develop moss or algae problems.
In areas of your roof where you need to control moss, consider first how to prevent moss growth. One option is to install a zinc or copper strip when installing your new roof. These are strips of metallic zinc roughly three inches wide that are nailed near the top of the roof just below the peak of the roof. (The easiest time to do this is while you're installing new shingles, but you can also install the strips on an existing roof.) Rain runs across the zinc strips and a small amount of zinc dissolves in the rainwater as zinc carbonate. The strips have the advantage that they are long-lasting and release only a small amount of zinc into the environment at any one time. Zinc strips a better alternative than zinc sulfate which can be applied commercially or bought over the counter at most hardware stores. Zinc sulfate kills the moss but the bed is still there to grow another day with greater vengeance. Zinc sulfate can also kill plants and is not eco friendly as it moves through the system and into the waters harming fish. Another step you can take in preventing moss problems is to remove branches that overhang the roof, shade the roofing material, and cause slow drying. Trees near buildings are beneficial because they provide cooling in the summer and a windbreak in stormy weather, but should not excessively shade roofs. You don't need to remove trees for moss control, just thin.
To remove the moss we recommend cleaning with a power washer. Our professional cleaners remove debris (leaves, needles, etc.) that slows drying of the roof and removes moss plants. Cleaning a roof is, at least conceptually, simple, but for the average homeowner getting up on a roof can clearly be dangerous and should not be taken lightly. Likewise use of a pressure washer is tedious exacting work best left to professionals. After we clean your roof we clean your gutters and downspouts, wash off the house and plants. We pick up the debris, bag it and remove it from your property.

 



Controlling: Moss on Roofs

Moss formation on roofs is a growing problem (pardon the pun:).. Many homes have-cedar shake or shingle roofs, which are more prone to moss growth than asphalt or fiberglass shingle roofs. More people are seeking privacy by hiding their 'homes among-the-trees. And in some areas, interest in the resale value of their homes has-caused the owners to try to correct years of neglect for their roofs.
Leaves or needless left on the roof from-,overhanging: or nearby trees will retain moisture and cause moss formation.- Roofs should be cleaned off periodically, using either a stiff broom or brush, or a high-pressure jet of wafer: Removing -foreign matter from the spaces (key-ways) between the individual shingles is especially _important,- but take care not to damage the shingles. Prune back overhanging tree limbs to allow good air movement and reduce future leaf drop on the roof.
A copper sulfate solution can also be effective when the moss -is actively -growing (usually in fall, winter and spring), and rain is not likely for-several-days. Spray it on the roof at a rate of 'I/4 to 112 ounce per 10 gallons of water. The copper sulfate is corrosive to metal cave troughs, downspouts and metal spray equipment, o they should be washed thoroughly with water after treatment. Also prevent spray or runoff from getting onto plants you want to keep.



 


The Pacific Northwest is known for its moist temperate environment in which mosses flourish, even in the most urban areas.  Urban mosses are of concern to homeowners because many people believe mosses damage rooftops. For example, some people think that a thick mat of moss may retain moisture that could potentially damage shingles and shakes.  On the other hand, some authors suggest that mosses may be beneficial to roofs because they moderate the damaging effects of the summer sun.  (See Need for Control: Rooftops).

Knowing which mosses are growing on rooftops is basic information that may ultimately prove useful in evaluating their effects.  We (a group of students) identified the ten most common rooftop mosses in the Corvallis and Eugene areas of western Oregon. Our climate is moist and temperate, with wet winters and dry summers.

Rooftops were chosen for their generous moss growth and accessibility.  A total of nine rooftops were sampled in Eugene and Corvallis, OR. The three most abundant mosses on each roof were collected and evaluated for percent cover.  All roofs sampled had a mild slope and were predominately north and west facing.

Mosses were identified in the lab using Lawton (1971), Schofield (1992), and McCune (2000).  Voucher specimens were deposited at the Oregon State University Herbariumfound Abundance.




Common Mosses on Nine Rooftops
in the Willamette Valley, Oregon

 

 

 Species found Abundance *  Occurrence
Dicranoweisia cirrata Very abundant 45%
Bryum capillare Abundant 33%
Racomitrium canescens Abundant 11%
Tortula princeps Abundant 33%
Rhytidiopsis robusta Abundant 11%
Antitrichia californica Sparse 22%
Ceratodon purpureus Sparse 56%
Scleropodium cespitans Sparse 22%
Tortula latifolia Sparse 11%
Bryum argenteum Rare 11%

 

*Abundance Code:   
   Average percent cover of a moss species on all rooftops sampled

    Very abundant = >40%
    Abundant = 10-40%
    Sparse = 1-10%
    Rare = <1%

Only one roof sampled was of cedar shakes, the rest were of asphalt shingles. Only Dicranoweisia cirrata and Bryum capillare were found on the cedar shakes. However, all the species found were present on asphalt shingles. On most rooftops sampled, there were typically fewer than 4 species present. Of these, the most common and abundant were Dicranoweisia cirrata, Bryum capillare, Tortula princeps. These species tend to form dense mats that cover large areas of the roof (see
Part 1 of rooftop photos).

Racomitrium canescens var. ericoides (see
Part 2 of rooftop photos
) and Homalothecium aeneum were abundant, but occurred infrequently.  These species also have the ability to form large mats. Ceratodon purpureus was very commonly found on rooftops, but was in low abundance. This species is commonly found on many substrates and in many habitats. The remaining species were found infrequently, and in low abundance.  Antitrichia californica was found growing in heavily shaded areas of the roofs, while the other species were found in both exposed and shaded areas. This may suggest that different moss species grow in areas shaded by trees.


 


Rain Gutter Shields - Gutter Hoods - Gutter Covers - Gutter Protection - Keeping leaves out of your gutters

Once you have gutters in place, cleaning them can be quite a chore depending on your environment. Some people find their gutters filled and overflowing with leaves and pine needles every few months, and constant maintenance is required. There are a number of lids or shields we install on your gutters that still allow rainwater to flow through but that block out leaves, twigs, pine needles, and all larger items. Most of these look like mesh screens or thin metal covers with grooves or holes to let water through. Our gutter shields aim to block debris before it ever gets into your gutters. It works by sending water through a horizontal 3/8" opening while leaves fall right over the front edge of the gutter. They attach directly to existing gutter systems -- and they've been around for over 25 years. The cost of installing these gutter covers is usually inexpensive. For some homes, it makes sense just to cover specific trouble areas that are especially prone to clogs and overflows. When installed, these gutter shields usually slide under the first row of overhanging shingles and are then screwed into the upper edge of the gutter - avoid systems that require driving nails or staples through the roofing materials. There have been some complaints that heavy downpours will shoot right over the gutter covers (since the water can't get through the screens or holes fast enough) and come flying off the roof like your own personal Niagara Falls. This can and does happen with many systems, but normally only very heavy torrential rain kind of situations. If you are in an area prone to those kind of cloudbursts, you may want to look into other options we provide. 

 


Types of Rain Gutters

Long ago rain gutters might be made of carved wood or or copper or lead. Most modern rain gutter systems are maid from aluminum, although you can buy stainless steel, copper, galvanized steel, vinyl and other materials as well. Most gutters come in sections, with straight pieces, corners, end caps, etc.

Some of the most popular gutter styles today are called seamless gutters. They are shaped from long rolls of flattened aluminum, and be made to any length, allowing entire lengths of your roof to be protected by a single long gutter with no leaky seams to worry about. Aluminum is most commonly used since it is much cheaper than copper or steel, and it won't rust -- a big plus when your job involves working in the rain all day! How much do aluminum rain gutters cost? Expect to pay about $7 per linear foot for installed gutters. Vinyl rain gutters can be significantly cheaper - only about $5 for 10 feet sections. Be sure to get several estimates before selecting any contractor for your job but you will find our rates are very competitive.  We have been in business doing gutter work for over 30 years!


 


Gutter Cleaning

As a homeowner, your job is to keep your gutter clean and free of debris so water can be collected and drained properly. Clogged gutters lead to overflow which then just pours or drips down the edges of the gutters and onto your siding, windows, etc. How can you clean your gutters? Depending on how high your roof is and how comfortable you are standing on the roof or ladder, some people choose to do it themselves, some people choose to hire a gutter cleaning service like us. Many roofing companies also do side work cleaning gutters to keep busy throughout the year.

For single story roofs, you can get by with a 6 or 8 foot ladder and get access to the tops of your gutters. Work from end to end, scooping out as much leaves, dirt, and debris as you can - use gloves to protect your hands. After the gutters are clean, grab a hose and wash out the gutters, making sure the downspout is clean and draining properly. You can also push the hose partway down the downspout and turn the hose up to flush out any small, loose pieces that may be stuck.

Clogged downspouts can also be cleaned using a plumbers snake, coming from either above or below, depending upon where you can get access to the spout. The churning, grinding motion of the snake will usually clear any obstructions in the pipe. You may see tools claiming to let you stand on the ground and magically scoop our debris and leaves from your gutters, but in our experience these don't work very all, sometimes barely at all. First, you cannot see what you are doing. Second, you cannot get much power or leverage to really grab out claws full or gunk. Third, the gutter space is pretty tight, between roof overhang and the spikes holding the gutters in place, there is little room to maneuver, even when standing on a ladder and trying to dig your hands in there. Trying to do it from 15 feet away on the ground is mostly impossible. Of course, people will still be happy to sell you a $30 "rain gutter cleaning kit", but don't expect much.

If you have your rain gutters cleaned professionally by us, expect to pay in the neighborhood of $150-$250 for a good sized home. Professional rain gutter cleaning removes all debris and flushes out all your gutters and downspouts. 




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